Did you know that your horse can be in trouble ... if the Blister Beetle is in the hay that you feed? 

Galusha Farm and their professional crop scouts look for the Blister Beetle and eliminate its probability, in our high quality hay production each year.

Please read the article from Progressive Farmer Magazine on the subject (click on link to open the article).

This article further outlines the danger of Blister Beetle and links to pictures of the insect.

Galusha Farm is also very concerned about producing the highest quality hay possible to create a well-rounded equine diet to promote good health and maximum nutritional value.

Top quality hay is a vital part of the equine diet and we have compiled this article outlining some of these basic needs.

What Makes For Good Horse Hay?

Horse owners and hay producers don't always agree on how to identify safe, good-quality horse hay. Here is a list of seven key characteristics buyers should consider when evaluating horse hay. Krishona Martinson and Paul Peterson, University of Minnesota extension agronomists, spoke about these characteristics at recent Minnesota Horse Expo seminars.

1) Mold/Moisture -- Buy hay baled between 15-17% moisture and it should be free of mold. "With small square bales, you can sometimes get away with baling at 18-20% moisture without spoilage," notes Peterson. More-dense big square bales should be put up below 16% moisture for safe storage. Hay baled above 25% moisture poses the threat of severe heat damage or spoilage, mold growth, and/or hay fires. Hay put up at 20-25% moisture and properly treated with organic acid preservatives can be fed safely to horses. Horses, however, may require a short adaptation period to readily consume this hay.

2) Maturity -- Don't equate seed heads with "good" hay. Seed heads just indicate that the plants are mature, with thick stems, more fiber, less protein and decreasing levels of digestible energy. Horses that aren't working hard or lactating may be able to get by with a "stemmier" hay containing more seed heads, Martinson and Peterson say. But hay with more leaves and softer, smaller stems is better quality.

Consider grass hays that have been harvested when seed heads have just begun to form. They have good fiber digestibility and more available energy than more mature hay. Legume hay harvested at about the 10% flower stage is usually a leafy hay with extra protein that horses will convert into ammonia. Mature legumes make hay that does not exceed a horse's protein level in most cases, but also tends to be very coarse, according to Martinson and Peterson. Softer hay will be consumed more readily, they explain. "If it feels rough to you, it will feel rough to the horse," Peterson says.

3) Cut Or Crop -- Don't base nutritional value on when hay is cut, the agronomists say. Maturity, followed by hay curing and storage, determine what nutrients a hay holds. Because plants that grow under cooler temperatures build more digestible fiber, first-crop hay may have more digestible fiber than later cuttings -- but it is not a guarantee. First cutting can often produce more coarse hay than later cuttings. But good and bad horse hay can be produced in any cutting.

4) Grass Hay Vs Alfalfa -- Know how much digestible fiber and energy your horses will need -- then find hay that will provide it. Alfalfa and clover generally have higher protein content than grasses. So alfalfa hay is a good protein source for young developing horses. But it may have more protein than what other horses need. Fiber from grasses is more digestible than from alfalfa and other legumes at the same maturity stage, say Martinson and Peterson.

5) Smell -- Not all sweet-smelling hay is good, caution the experts. Sometimes hay smells sweet because sugars within it carmelize, which indicates mold presence. Horse owners should look closely at the hay to make sure they aren't dealing with mold issues.

6) Color -- A green color is only a fair indicator of hay quality, Peterson says. "Bleached color indicates exposure to sunlight or rain, and can mean vitamin A has oxidized. But other essential nutrients are usually present in bleached hay." When only bleached hay is available, horse owners should have it tested.

7) Storage Considerations/Spoilage --Once you've bought it, keep stored hay away from water and wild animals, which can contaminate it. Studies have shown that up to 50% of a hay bale can be ruined when stored where moisture can be wicked up into it from the ground. Round bales should be dense and well-formed with twine or net wrap, and less than 18% moisture to minimize storage loss potential.

Martinson and Peterson recommend that horse owners take representative samples of every hay lot to a forage testing lab for an equine nutritional analysis. Information about sampling and forage testing can be found at www.foragetesting.org.

Is your hay suitable for horses?
Steve Foster, extension educator with the University of Nevada-Reno, offers these guidelines for evaluating hay:

1) Horse hay should be 10-17% moisture and about 10% crude protein. Crude protein is not likely to be a limiting part of the diet except in lactating mares, foals or performance horses, which require higher levels.

2) Hay with an acid detergent fiber (ADF) value of 30-35% is good for horses. The lower the ADF value, the more digestible the nutrients in the hay. Hay at 45% or more ADF is of little nutritional value. Neutral detergent fiber (NDF) levels should be 40-50%, and most horses won’t eat anything above 65%.

3) Equine feed analyses provide non-fiber carbohydrate (NFC) estimates to help select feed for horses that show sensitivity to starches and sugars and measure digestible energy (DE) in the hay. For a light working horse, DE should be about 20 Mcal/day, and most hays range from 0.76 to 0.94 Mcal/lb of DE. Calcium and phosphorus ratios can vary among different types of hay. An adult horse in a maintenance phase should have a calcium-to-phosphorus ratio of 3:1 to 1:1.

4) Rained-on hay may be fine for horses in spite of the color. Green is ideal but overrated. Green is an indication of Vitamin A content and means that the hay has not been rained on prior to baling. Actually, rained-on hay (unless it received a lot of rain over several days) is only slightly lower in nutritive value than hay that was not rained on. That loss in value is usually due to more leaf loss due to more handling to dry the hay for baling. If it isn’t moldy and it tests okay, it should be fine to feed because horse owners should be supplementing for the vitamins that tend to be lost in rained-on or older hay, anyway.

Sincerely,

Steve Berning, Owner of Galusha Farm